We have a bathroom faucet sort of, but not exactly, like this Delta faucet. Here is an FAQ on how to get Delta replacement parts, including that screw doo-hickey. Last but not least it had to drive a screw in either direction without damaging the head. Removing a stripped screw or stripped bolt or other stripped or broken fastener can be done by either using a screw extractor (which is a dedicated tool) or by drilling the screw out by using the smallest diameter metal-drilling screw to drill out the stripped screw’s shaft or somehow getting a grip on the head (unlikely with your current predicament since set screws usually reside underneath the surface of or so near the surface of your working materials that it doesn’t matter, but with protruding screw heads folks can sometimes get a grip with a set of locking pliers) or finally by finding another way to restore whatever the slot originally was in the screw (like cutting a new slot in it with a dremel or some other high speed, low torque tool). Most of the on-line recommendations involve drilling out the screw, which will ruin the faucet handle.
Also it’s important to note that usually if you drill out the screw, it doesn’t usually ruin anything but the stripped screw. Screw a larger, self-locking screw into the stripped hole. Pick a nut that is about the same size as the screw head or at the least such that the diameter of the hole in the middle of the nut is smaller than the diameter of the hole in the screw. Superglue may also work, viz the epoxy suggestion, but the same precautions are required. You can put masking/painters tape over the screw/hole and punch a small hole through the tape, for inserting your adhesive-tipped item (anything immune to the acetone you’d use to remove the superglue). You basically get a rubber band and put it over the stripped screw. Put your screwdriver over it and with the rubber band between the screw and the screwdriver push with heavy force and turn slowly. Before you try this, it is a good idea to put some tape on the logicboard around the damaged screw. If part of the screw head is exposed above the wood, try a pair of needle-nose or clamping pliers. The two methods below will only work if the broken part of the screw is sticking up above the surface of your wood.
Also, Henry’s old bits do not last as long as preliminary tests have shown ours do because “KnifeEdge” bits don’t bounce in and out of the screw heads beating themselves to death like before while they chew up your screws in the process which is what greatly accelerates the wear and tear to Henry’s old bits. Well, the answer to the problem is to have a set of extractor bits like these. You can see the set screw in the picture. All we have is a screw with a stripped head. Presented as drills, the extractors have an inverted screw pitch which is anchored in the screw head by loosening. Does anyone know what size Screw Extractor I would need to remove one of these Tri Wing screws? When a previous faucet had the same problem, I fixed it by replacing the stem, which worked like a charm, so I was planning on doing the same to this one.
If this solution does not work, the second option is to heat the metal structure at the same time as the screw to expand before loosening the screw with a screwdriver. There is a second option if the screw breaks off more than 1/8 inch below the surface. Using a special drill bit isn’t the only option for removal. We are pleased to report that the “KnifeEdge” bit works extremely well, it works whether tightening or loosening, in areas with little or no leverage and on oily screws. As a result of our other requirements, we also created a bit that works in dirty oily screws the same as dry screws. Next time you’re in the paint department, pick up a 3-in. roller frame, the type that takes the same diameter cover as a standard 9-in. roller. Now you can prevent that waste of time and money. Think about the time and frustration that will save you and how much better your finished job will look.
The difference in cost is a small price to pay when compared to how much better the “Knife Edge” bit performs. I’ve seen some recommendations for ways to get better grip in the opening, including shoving a bit of rubber into the opening (which I’ve tried) or shoving some steel wool into the opening (which I have not yet tried). So the good news is that there are probably multiple ways you can get the screw out. Slowly and carefully drill about 1/8-1/4 of an inch into the screw head, keeping the drill parallel with the screw. This is much easier than the drill bit method in the last step. It also had to be compatible with current bit drivers and holders. Our bit is much more multifaceted and the attention to detail is much higher with closer tolerances so those methods simply would not work for us. From the very start, our primary goal was that our “KnifeEdge” bit had to work the way we have all wished for, it had to be compatible with the standard Phillips screws that fill the world of fasteners today.